Wide Irish Edging Lengthy Instructions

This beautiful Irish-style edging looks like it's worked longways, but it isn't. You start at the narrow end and work sideways for as many motifs as you need, without having to do a lot of measuring in advance. The original instructions come from an out-of-copyright pattern book, and you can see them at vintagecraftsandmore.com/2016/03/11/irish-crochet-lace-edgings-pattern/ and in the Dover book "Crocheting Edgings" edited by Rita Weiss. Both have other beautiful designs as well. This pattern is completely rewritten and much expanded.

Materials:

• Size 10 white thread. I used DMC Baroque. Ecru might do, but I prefer white for Irish crochet. In retrospect, I think a "harder" thread might be better than the very soft Baroque.
• Size 8, 9, or 10 hook (American). I prefer 9 (1.40 mm). Not too loose or too tight.
• Try smaller threads. This would look very delicate in size 30, e.g. DMC Cebelia 30. But learn the pattern with 10. I have used Cebelia size 20 and it works nicely with a #11 (1.1 mm) hook.
• Tapestry needle for weaving in ends

Instructions in American terms with notes.

See the notes at the end, including how to make a 3-tr cluster and details about picots.

Terminology used throughout. Please read this!

I have given names to some repeated sequences instead of spelling out how to do them every time. Other terms are standard -- ch, sl st, sc, dc, tr, cluster.

Picots are made with 4 ch throughout. For instance, ch 6 and then sc in 4th chain back from hook, not counting the one the hook is presently sticking through. For most picots, put the hook through both top threads, then make an sc. This creates a neater, tighter picot. Don't do this in the trefoil picots!

Picot loops

Both picot loops use a 4-ch picot (ch 4, sc in 4th ch from hook).

1-picot loop means a short chain with one picot in the middle: 2 ch, picot, 2 ch. Like this: oo^oo, attached at both ends to the previous row with an sc or a tr.
To make: Ch 6, sc in 4th ch back from hook, ch 2.

2-picot loop means a series of ch's with 2 evenly-spaced picots in it, like this: oo^oo^oo, attached at both ends to the previous row with an sc or other stitch.
To make: Ch 6, sc in 4th ch back from hook (which leaves 2 ch before the picot), ch 6, sc in 4th ch back from hook (a 2-ch space and a picot), ch 2.

2-picot loop anchored in the outside 2 ch of a 2-picot loop: Small x = sc.

oo^oo^oox ==> (reading left to right, one 2-picot loop)

.....oo^oo!!!oo! <== (reading right to left, mesh, block, 1-picot loop, etc.)

Mesh is an open square or oblong. The Inside edge column is all meshes. The second column is alternating meshes and blocks. Note: In some rows, the open mesh is made with 6 ch at the end of the previous row. Using 7 ch instead increases the elastic quality of the outer column.

Block is three tr's in a row, !!!, made in one tr and the 5-ch space on the previous row.

Cluster is made with three tr joined at the top. Look this up on YouTube, or see attempt at how-to at end of instructions.

Trefoil is 3 picots made on the same base. Hard to describe, but here goes: Ch 9, sc in 6^th st from hook in back loop. (This picot does not look bigger than the others when the trefoil is complete.) Ch 4, sc in small hole at the base of the first picot. Ch 4, sc in the small hole in the base of the 2 previous picots. There are four trefoils in each fan. They are the outer edge of the lace. In making the picots for the trefoils, insert the hook into the single thread at the top of the ch, not under the two at the top.

Tail: The string hanging off the start of the foundation chain. Make it at least 6 inches long so you can use it for reverse chains if necessary, and weave it in. Then cut it.

Outside: Away from the plain edge (the meshes and blocks). For instance, the trefoils are on the Outside side.

Inside: Toward the plain edge. The meshes and blocks are all on the Inside side of the work (not counting the 5 small meshes in the fan).

“Inside” and “Outside”

The plain (Inside) edge is one column of meshes, then one column of alternating meshes and blocks. The Outside edge is the trefoils.

Rows

The pattern consists of a foundation chain, base row, and rows 1-6. Rows 1 through 6 make up the motif, which you repeat to make the lace as long as you need.

INSTRUCTIONS

Leave a long tail, at least 6 inches, in case you have to do a couple of chains in the reverse direction, and to weave in the end.

Foundation chain: ch 26, or a number close to it.

Base row. This is the hardest thing you'll have to do. Everything else is easier! And you only have to do this once.

This row has three 2-picot loops. It has two meshes at the Inside edge.

1. Starting from the end of the 26 ch, make the first 2-picot loop, made slightly differently. Here's how you do this one. ALL others will be as described in Terminology. {Sc in 4th ch back from hook (picot made). Ch 6, sc in 4th ch from hook (another picot), ch 2.} This is an 2-picot loop using 2 of the foundation ch's for the first two ch's.
2. Skip 5 ch's in the foundation chain, counting back from the first picot you made, and sc in the next ch. You might want to count back 6, or even 7 and see how it looks.
3. 2-picot loop. Skip 3 ch in foundation chain, sc in next ch.
4. 2-picot loop. Skip 3 ch, sc in next ch.
5. Ch 5, skip 3 ch.
6. Tr in next ch, ch 2, skip 2 ch, tr, skip 2 ch, tr in last ch of foundation. Two meshes made. If this comes out even, give yourself a pat on the back.
7. Ch 7, turn.

Results (leaving out the ch 6 turning chain at the end): 2-picot loop, sc, 2-picot loop, sc, 2-picot loop, sc, 5 ch, tr, ch 2, tr (three 2-picot loops connected to a mesh, then another mesh), or, when turned, tr, 2 ch, tr, 5 ch, sc, 2-picot loop, sc, 2-picot loop, sc, 2-picot loop.

This is supposed to add up to 26. When I finish the base row, it adds up to 23 or sometimes 28. Don't worry about it. Just make sure you have the right number of meshes and 2-picot loops. If you run out of foundation chain, use the thread tail to make a ch or two in the opposite direction. If it's short and leaves a chain or two hanging, take a look at the proportions of the 2-picot loops and see if they seem right. You can fold over the extra chains when you weave in the tail and nobody will notice. I ended up sc'ing 7 or 8 ch's back from the first picot, and found myself short a ch at the Inside end of the foundation, so I made a ch going the other way with the tail and put a tr into that.

Rows

Row 1 -- Contains Seven-Chain Base of Fan

The ch 7 you made at the end of the previous row = the first tr and 2 ch of this row's Inside mesh. This outward-working row has a mesh and a block.

1. Tr in tr. Mesh made.
2. 2 tr in next space (5-ch space). Block made.
3. 1-picot loop, sc between picots in next 2-picot loop in previous row.
4. 2-picot loop, sc between picots in next 2-picot loop in previous row.
5. Ch 7, turn.

This 7 ch is the base of the fan. Here are the stitches of Row 1, showing the 7-ch at the end. The x's are sc's.

Outside <== Worked outward Inside

*******x**^**^**x**^**!!!**!

Row 2 -- Shortest Row, Anchoring Base of Fan

This inward-working return row has one 2-picot loop in it and two meshes on the Inside edge.

1. Sc (the end of the 7 ch) between picots in next loop (the 2-picot loop in Row 1).
2. 2-picot loop, sc after picot in 1-picot loop in Row 1.
3. Ch 5.
4. Skip 2 tr, tr in tr.
5. Ch 2, tr in tr.
6. Ch 7, turn.

Row 3 -- Fan of Triples Row

This outward-working row has one 2-picot loop in it and has one mesh and one block on the Inside edge.

1. Tr in next tr.
2. 2 tr in next 5-ch space. Block made.
3. 1-picot loop, sc between picots in 2-picot loop of previous row.
4. 2-picot loop. This 2-picot loop is not anchored with an sc.

Next row of the fan, still part of this row of the pattern:

5. In the 7-chain loop (base of fan, previous row), make 6 tr's separated by 1 ch, and a ch at the end. Like this: *!*!*!*!*!*!
6. Sl st in first (Inside) picot in last 2-picot loop of previous row.
7. Ch 1, turn.

Row 4 -- Five Small Meshes Row (in Fan)

1. Sl st into the top of the nearest tr.
2. Ch 3 (equals a dc).
3. Ch 2, dc in next tr. Do this 6 times. You should have 6 dc's with 2 chains between them; a row of small square meshes. Like this, only the first dc is really 3 ch. |**|**|**|**|**| The last dc is in the last tr.
4. 2-picot loop, sc between picots in 2-picot loop in previous row.
5. 2-picot loop, sc after picot in 1-picot loop in previous row.
6. Ch 5, skip 2 tr, tr in next tr.
7. Ch 2, skip 2 ch, tr in last tr.
8. Ch 7, turn.

Row 5 -- Cluster Row, 5 Clusters

This row has two 2-picot loops and a mesh and block on the Inside side.

1. Tr in next tr. 2 tr's in next 5-ch space. Block made.
2. 1-picot loop, sc between picots in 2-picot loop in previous row.
3. 2-picot loop, sc between picots in 2-picot loop in previous row.
4. 2-picot loop. This one isn't anchored with an sc.
5. Cluster in first ch 2 mesh. Ch 5. (See Terminology and attempt to explain clusters after the picture.)
6. Cluster in each of the next three 2-ch meshes, ch 5 after each cluster, then make a cluster in the last mesh.
7. Ch 1, sl st in Outside picot of 2-picot loop in previous row.
8. Ch 1, turn.

Row 6 “The Biggie” -- Trefoil Row

This return row has three 2-picot loops after you make the trefoils, and completes the fan. It has two meshes on in the Inside edge. It is the last row in the pattern. After this you can repeat the pattern, starting with Row 1, for as long as you want.

1. Sl st in top of last (closest) cluster.
2. Ch 3, make a trefoil, ch 3, sc in 5-ch space between cluster and next cluster.
3. Make three more of these trefoil loops, attaching them with sc's in the spaces between the clusters. Total of four. The last trefoil loop is attached with an sc in the last 5-ch loop.
4. 2-picot loop, sc between picots of 2-picot loop in previous row.
5. 2-picot loop, sc between picots of 2-picot loop in previous row.
6. 2-picot loop, sc after picot of 1-picot loop in previous row.
7. Ch 5, skip 2 tr, tr in tr. Mesh made.
8. Ch 2, tr in tr. Mesh made.
9. Ch 7, turn.

Repeat from Row 1 for the length you need.

How to make a cluster of three tr's:

Step 1, first tr:

Wrap the thread around the hook twice.

Insert through the mesh and catch the working thread (the thread coming from the skein).

Pull it back through. Four loops on hook.

Catch the working thread and pull it through the two closest loops on the hook. Three loops on hook.

Pull the working thread through next two loops. Two loops on hook. Leave them there. Go to step 2.

Step 2, second tr:

Wrap the thread around the hook twice.

Insert through the mesh and catch the working thread.

Pull it back through. Five loops on hook.

Catch the working thread and pull it through two loops. Four loops on hook.

Catch the working thread and pull it through two loops. Three loops on hook. Go to step 3.

Step 3, third tr:

Wrap the thread around the hook twice.

Insert through the mesh and catch the working thread.

Pull it back through. Six loops on hook.

Catch the working thread and pull it through two loops. Five loops on hook.

Catch the working thread and pull it through two loops. Four loops on hook.

Catch the working thread and pull it through ALL FOUR loops.

Sc.

Isn't that pretty? It takes practice. In making a cluster to identify the steps here, I had to rip it out and redo it about four times. But once you get into the rhythm of it, it's... I hate to say it ... but it's easy.

Notes

It's quick and easy to iron. Press out the trefoils with your fingers and go over the lace with steam at the cotton setting (if you used cotton, of course).

All rows have at least one 2-picot loop.

All blocks (outward-working rows) are followed by a 1-picot loop.

All returning rows (worked from Outside to Inside) have the last 2-picot loop attached to the 1-picot loop in the previous row. This is the 2-picot loop showing where it is attached to the 1-p loop in the previous row.

...**^**^**y~~!**!*******

...^**y**^**!!!**!

where * is a chain, ! a tr, and the x's are the sc's attaching the loops to the loop on the previous row. After that, 5 ch represented by ~~ because they fit, and !**! followed by 7-ch turning ch = first mesh.

Why a 7-ch turning ch on the Outside edge? It makes more even meshes.

More on Picots

TWO kinds of picots. Most are made with the hook through the lower opening in a chain stitch. See diagram below. - ~ - stacked up represent the top thread, the middle thread which is a flat sideways S-curve, and the bottom thread.

-
~
* HERE
-

This makes neat, firm picots.

The picots making up the leaflets of the trefoils, however, should be made like this:

-
* HERE
~
-

because that leaves a small hole at the base of the first picot into which the second and third are worked. I have not found a better way than this but one might exist.

In the trefoils, I tried 4-ch p, 5-ch p, 4-ch p, but it looked like a rude gesture. Using one 6-ch picot and 2 4-ch p works best.

Speed

These are biggish, complicated motifs, so they take a few minutes apiece. As you make more, you will speed up. However, make sure you get 1-p loops and 2-p loops where they belong. COUNT as you go! 1-p loops are always and only after a block. 2-p loops occur in both outgoing and returning rows.

One motif

The fan part consists of:

7 ch base (followed by a row where it's anchored)
6 tr's separated by 1 ch
5 dc, ch 2, dc meshes
5 3-tr clusters
4 trefoils basically like this ***^^^*** only the picots are worked on the same base to make a triple leaf, like poison ivy (!).

Not to close on that note, I will say that this is the best bébé Irish edging I have ever seen.

I believe this slightly modified pattern is an improvement on the original wide Irish lace, and it's certainly an improvement (in my opinion) on the original thread-company instructions.

Wide Irish edging hints and tips

You can find the instructions for this beautiful edging in "Crocheting Edgings," edited by Rita Weiss (Dover, 1980, available at Amazon. You can buy the book, which I recommend because it's full of pretty edgings, or you can buy a PDF of just this page). The instructions are cryptic, although I did manage to follow them. Here are some hints and tips that will help you follow the instructions in the book. These photos are by me.

The edging consists of a filet edge (footing), picot ground, and fan-shaped motifs. Each fan motif is edged with four trefoils as seen in this picture.

One motif

Materials:

• I used a size 10 white thread, DMC Baroque, with a size 9 (1.4 mm) hook. You could try an 8 or a 10. Ecru might do, but I prefer white for Irish crochet.
• Try smaller threads. This would look very delicate in size 30, e.g. DMC Cebelia 30. But learn the pattern with 10. Smaller threads of course require smaller hooks. I have successfully made it with size 20 DMC Cebelia using a #11 (1.1 mm) hook.
• Tapestry needle for weaving in ends

This pattern needs to be crocheted fairly tightly, or the picots won't look right.

Picots -- Try making the picots by doing ch-6, sc in 4th ch from hook instead of ch 5 and 3rd ch. For most picots, put the hook through both top threads (front and back loops), then make an sc. This creates a neater, tighter picot. DON'T do this in the trefoil picots! (See section on trefoils below.)

Fan motifs consist of:

7 ch base
6 tr's separated by 1 ch
5 (dc, ch 2, dc) meshes
5 3-tr clusters
4 trefoils

A cluster is made with three tr joined at the top.

How to make a cluster of three tr's:

Step 1, first tr:

Wrap the thread around the hook twice (yo 2 times).

Insert through the space in the previous row and catch the working thread (the thread coming from the skein).

Pull it back through. Four loops on hook.

Yo, and pull through the two closest loops on the hook. Three loops on hook.

Yo, pull through next two loops. Two loops on hook. Leave them there. Go to step 2.

Step 2, second tr:

Wrap the thread around the hook twice (yo twice).

Insert through the space and catch the working thread.

Pull it back through. Five loops on hook.

Yo, pull through two loops. Four loops on hook.

Yo, pull through two loops. Three loops on hook. Go to step 3.

Step 3, third tr:

Wrap the thread around the hook twice (yo twice).

Insert through the mesh and catch the working thread.

Pull it back through. Six loops on hook.

Yo, pull through 2 loops. Five loops on hook.

Yo, pull through 2 loops. Four loops on hook.

Yo, pull through ALL FOUR loops.

Ch. In this pattern, that will be the first of 5 ch for the first 4 clusters; the last has just the one ch after it.

Isn't that pretty? It takes practice. In making a cluster to identify the steps here, I had to rip it out and redo it about four times. But once you get into the rhythm of it, it's... I hate to say it ... but it's easy.

Trefoils are 3 picots made on the same base. Many Irish-style patterns use trefoils and shamrocks. This is my take on the kind on a "stem" as in this edging pattern. Ch 9, sc in 6th st from hook in back loop. Ch 4, sl st in small hole at the base of the first picot. Ch 4, sl st in the small hole in the base of the 2 previous picots. Ch 3 and connect to the previous row, or wherever the trefoil is anchored.
Details of the first picot in a trefoil: In making the first picot for a trefoil, insert the hook into the single thread at the top of the ch (back loop), not under the two at the top (front and back loop).

Using size 10 thread and a #9 hook (1.4 mm), 20 motifs make a length suitable for putting on a pillowcase.

Railroad Diamond edging and insertion

I designed this old-fashioned edging. The base row and row 1 are hard, but the rest is pretty straightforward. Design, pattern, photos, and chart all copyright by me. You can make this for whatever you want, just don't copy it onto a page, rather link to this page. 

Edging applied to a hand towel. Worked in size 20 Cebelia with a #11 (1.1 mm) hook.

As of July 3, 2016, I have posted a test request for this pattern on Ravelry: http://www.ravelry.com/discuss/free-pattern-testers/topics/3458810 Ravelry members (membership is free) rejectranch, knittly, ploverwing, Airey09, and Spice2s have tested it.

The edging looks nicest in a fine thread such as Cebelia 30 worked with a #10 or #11 hook, but can be made in any size thread. I have tried it in sizes 10, 20, and 30, but not 80 (tatting cotton), which would probably be very cute. Yarn won't do. I think a design this visually complex needs a solid color. When working in a larger thread it helps to make the ch 3 in the middle of the shell a little loose.

Railroad Diamond edging in #30 thread using a #11 hook (1.1 mm)

Terms:

ch, sc, hdc, dc = chain stitch, single crochet, half-double crochet, double crochet.

shell = 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc.

shell in shell = 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc in ch-3 space of shell in previous row. 

Edging Pattern:

Base row (in green on chart): Make a slip knot to begin, leaving enough of a tail to weave in later. Ch 6, dc in 6th ch from hook. This makes an oval-ish opening, like an eye, with 5 ch on one side. Ch 12, dc in 5th ch from hook--a second oval opening with 4 ch on one side. Ch 4, turn. Note this turning ch! You will work into it later. After you turn, make sure you're working in the chain sides of the ovals (not the dc side).

The chart is now up to date and consistent with the text.

Row 1 (Blue in chart). Shell into oval closest to hook. Ch 2. Sc over 7-ch space between the two ovals. Ch 2. Shell in next oval. Ch 3, turn. Everything after this point is easier.

Row 2 (Black). Shell in shell. Ch 3. Shell in shell. Ch 6. Sc in (noted) 4-ch turning ch of previous row. Turn (red stitches in chart). Sc, hdc, dc, ch 3, dc, hdc, sc in ch-6 space. Ch 2.

Row 3 (Blue). Shell in shell. Ch 2. Sc in ch-3 space between shells of previous row. Ch 2, Shell in shell. Ch 3, turn.

Row 4 (Magenta). Shell in shell. Ch 3. Shell in shell. Ch 3, turn. 

Row 5 (Blue). Shell in shell. Ch 2. Sc in ch-3 space between shells of previous row. Ch 2, shell in shell, ch 3, 

turn.

Row 6 (Black). Shell in shell. Ch 3. Shell in shell. Ch 6, sc in ch 3 turning ch at end of previous row making a loop on the outside of the edging. Turn. (Red in chart) Work sc, hdc, dc, ch 3, dc, hdc, sc in 6-ch loop. Ch 2.

Row 7. Shell in shell. Ch 2. Sc in ch-3 space between shells of previous row. Ch 2, Shell in shell. Ch 3, turn.

Repeat rows 4 to 7 for length desired. End with row 7 without the 3 ch at the end. After the last dc, ch 1, cut thread, leaving enough to weave in, and pull through to tie off. Weave in ends with a tapestry needle.

Size 10 Aunt Lydia's thread using #7 hook (1.65 mm)

Corner of dish towel with edging

Insertion Pattern:

Matching insertion

Base row: Make a slip knot to begin, leaving enough of a tail to weave in later. Ch 6, dc in 6th ch from hook. This makes an oval-ish opening, like an eye. Ch 12, dc in 5th ch from hook--a second oval opening. Ch 4, turn. 

Now work in the ch side of the ovals. 

1. Shell into first oval. Ch 2. Sc over 7-ch space between the two ovals. Ch 2. Shell in second oval. Ch 3, turn. 

2.Shell in shell. Ch 3. Shell in shell. Ch 3, turn.

3. Shell in shell. Ch 2. Sc in ch-3 space between shells of previous row. Ch 2, Shell in shell. Ch 3, turn.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 for length desired. End with row 3 without the 3 ch at the end. After the last dc, ch 1, cut thread, leaving enough to weave in, and pull through to tie off.

Narrow Anita crocheted shell lace edging

Narrow Anita edging

This is very similar to the Anita edging.


1. Ch 8, (dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, dc) (=shell) in first ch (8th ch from hook). Ch 4, turn.
2. Dc in first ch 2 space, ch 2. Shell in next ch 2 space (the middle ch 2 of the previous shell). Dc in ch 8 loop. Ch 5, turn.
3. Shell in shell (make shell in second ch 2 space). Ch 4, turn.
4. Dc in first ch 2 space, ch 2. Shell in next ch 2 space (middle ch 2 of previous shell). Dc in previous ch 5 loop. Ch 5, turn.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 for length desired. To end off, omit last ch 5. Instead, ch 1, cut thread and pull loose end through.

The Anita shell crocheted edging

Anita shell lace edging

I am looking for Ravelry testers for this edging as of 7-25-16. Here's the test page: http://www.ravelry.com/discuss/free-pattern-testers/3443972/

Notes.

- Shell = dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, dc. 

- Ch 4, dc in first 2-ch space, ch 2 = pointy bottom of motif, on the outside of the edging. 

- Ch 3, dc in previous ch 7 is the top of the edging that will be sewed to something.

1. Ch 10, (dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, dc) (=shell) in first ch (10th from hook). First shell made. Turn.

2. Ch 4, dc in first ch-2 space. Ch 2. Shell in second (next) ch-2 space. Ch 3. Dc in previous 10-ch loop. Ch 7. Turn.

3. Shell in second ch-2 space (middle of previous shell, that is). Ch 4, turn.

4. Dc in first ch-2 space, ch 2. Shell in next ch-2 space (middle of previous shell). Ch 3, dc in previous 7-ch loop. Ch 7. Turn.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 for length desired. To end, omit last ch 7. Instead, ch 1, cut thread and pull through.

(For another variant on this, see "Narrow Anita Edging.")

Anita in sizes 10 and 30

The Agnes edging

Agnes Ann chart

Fancier than the Alice edging, The Agnes edging is a small asymmetrical edging based on shells. It would look nice done in a fine thread, say #30. This is DMC Baroque size 10 thread using a #9 (1.4 mm) hook. All shells are dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, dc.

1. Ch 10. Dc, ch2, dc, ch 2, dc in 1st ch. Ch 6, turn.
2. Dc, ch 2, dc, ch2, dc in second ch 2 space. Dc into previous ch 10 space. Ch 5, turn.
3. Dc, ch 2, dc, ch2, dc in second ch 2 space. Ch 6, turn.
4. Dc, ch 2, dc, ch2, dc in second ch 2 space. Dc into previous ch 5 space. Ch 5, turn.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 to length desired. On last row omit the ch 5 and tie off.

Agnes chart

Repetition in the pattern

"Agnes Ann" (has an extra dc)

Agnes Ann:
1. Ch 10. Dc, ch2, dc, ch 2, dc (shell) in 1st ch. Ch 5, turn.
2. Dc into first ch-2 space, ch 2. Shell into second ch 2 space. Dc into previous ch 10 space. Ch 5, turn.
3. Shell in second ch 2 space. Ch 5, turn.
4. Dc in first 2-ch space, ch 2, shell in second ch 2 space. Dc into previous ch 5 space. Ch 5, turn.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 to length desired. On last row omit the ch 5 and tie off.

The Alice edging

This is  a tiny, basic, simple edging. I call it the Alice edging after my grandmother. It twists when made, but would straighten out sewed to something. After the first row, dc's go into dc's and into chain loops, not into ch.

Start at bottom left with a chain of 11.

Pulled thread stitches

Here are some close-ups of various pulled thread (drawn fabric) stitches from an informal sampler worked on burlap.

Three-sided stitch ground

Eyelet ground

Offset four-sided stitch

Wave stitch? Three-sided stitch's little brother

Been working on the ill-named faggot stitch, which I find very difficult to do. It is so called because it bundles the threads together. A faggot, or fagot, (as in wood) is a bundle.

Here are some stitches worked on linen and some kind of gauzy fabric: